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Subscribe to GoodMedicine magazineCOSMETIC ACUPUNCTURE

The benefits of cosmetic acupuncture, the pain-free facelift, are more than meets the eye with the Finer Face Microcurrent giving you the ultimate lift every time, says Julie Beun-Chown

Admit it.  You've sat in traffic at the red light, looked at your reflection in the rear-vision mirror and reached up, pulled back the skin around your forehead and eyes, and wondered what a facelift would do for you.
But if Botox or cosmetic surgery seams excessive, there is another alternative that costs less, is pain-free and - best of all - can be done in your lunch hour.


Cosmetic acupuncture, with or without needles, has attracted smooth-faced celebrities such as Liv Tyler, Oprah, Madonna and Sheryl Crow, all eager to look younger, naturally.
"Both methods diminish lines, tighten up the muscles under the skin, improve skin texture, clear up toxins under the skin and reduce circles under the eyes, without side effects, " says Canadian cosmetician acupuncturist and reiki master, Greg Belcham. "They both work naturally, on  he same principles as acupuncture, and they have the same gentle impact."  And its fast.  Depending on your age and health history - whether or not you smoke, get a lot of sun and drink, for example - the effect can be dramatic.  "Within three sessions, you really start to notice a glow, and improvement on the skin," says Sydney-based cosmetic acupuncturist Jennifer Chalmers.  "You see a softening of the lines.  Basically, the more damaged the skin, the more improvements will be obvious."  Such was the case with 63 year old Marilyn Leroux.  During her first session, half of her face was done, to see the difference it would make.  "I was amazed, because you could see the wrinkles running halfway across my forehead, then they stopped," she says.  "Half my face was saggy, and the other wasn't."
Cosmetic acupuncture is based on the traditional acupuncture theory that the body has meridians along which life-force energy (chi) and emotions from various organs flow.  The meridians also flow through the face and around the mouth, nose and eyes, so any problems with blocked chi elsewhere in the body will ultimately show up in the face.  Lines on the sides of the nose and down to the mouth point to stomach issues, for example, while bags under the eyes signify kidney problems - possibly oedema, (Oedema is a condition that causes too much fluid - mainly water - to accumulate in your body. Any tissue or organ can be affected, particularly the hands, feet and around the eyes and sufferers experience debilitating swelling).  "The face is reflective of what's going on in the body," Chalmers says.  "I might be treating the face, but it's attached to the rest of what's going on, so facial acupuncture might have side benefits, like sleeping better, skin clearing up and improved digestion."

NON-NEEDLE METHOD - What to expect....
Also know as micro-current facial rejuvenation (MCFR), non-needle acupuncture works on the same principles as its traditional cousin, but operates entirely using low-level currents.
In a 1999 study conducted at the University of Washington, patients undergoing surgery were treated pre- and post-operatively with micro-current wands and experienced reduced inflammation, redness and irritation to their scars.  The reason may lie with adenosine triphosphate (ATP), the 'energy of life' in cells which powers photosynthesis, muscle re-education and membrane support.  In fact, a 1982 study published in Clinical Orthopeadics and Related Research found that ATP in tissue increased by 500 per cent with micro-current stimulation.  Clinical trials at the University of Washington showed that micro-currents boosted elastin by 45 per cent and circulation by 35 per cent.

Many MCFR practitioners are also trained acupuncturists, so expert similar questioning. "I balance the body before I start, check all the organs and treat the main points," says Belcham.  But that's where the similarity with acupuncture ends.  Instead of needles, two hand-held devices known as probes or wands are placed on points along meridians and the 32 muscles of the face.  A painless current runs through the muscles and, in effect, exercises them while stimulating blood flow.

MCFR is effective on any aging skin, but can be particularly useful in treating dark circles, puffy eyes and deep lines.  It's not suitable if you're pregnant, suffer epilepsy or thrombosis or if you have a pacemaker.

MCFR costs vary, from $75 up to $450 an hour depending on the salon and where it is situated in the world.  Treatments involve 12 one hour sessions.

In Focus

Electric currents have been incorporated into facial machines for many years. The research and development conducted to assist the “baby boomers” in maintaining a youthful appearance has promoted their evolution to the highly efficient apparatuses we have at our disposal today. Understandably, there is a great deal of interest around the muscle enhancement abilities of micro-currents. Many esthetic professionals are successfully marketing these treatments as “non-surgical lifts”.

The combination of different variations of currents allows these machines to show great results in tissue enhancement and repair. The currents vary in the time they take to peak, whether gradually or quickly. The time the current remains peaked will also vary, as will the time the current takes to subside. The variation in the current and frequency can be concentrated on specific tissues and adapted to the individual needs of each client. The micro-currents utilized produce different effects on the muscle and the tissue of the skin.

If we look at the muscle enhancement abilities of these machines we need to understand what happens to muscle tissue as we get older. The facial muscles either relax causing poor tonus in the facial tissue, or stay contracted due to stress and habitual contraction. For example, in a young client, the zygomaticus muscles of the cheeks are nice and firm and there is definition to the cheek and jaw line. In a more mature client, the same muscles have relaxed and the definition of the cheek and jaw line is much softer. Continual frowning systematically contributes to permanent vertical lines above the nose. These changes in the muscle tonus develop over time and are due to the golgi apparatus of the muscles not responding as efficiently to nerve stimulation.

Micro current machines can be used to improve the muscle reception and re-educate the muscle to respond more effectively to regular nerve stimulation. The desired relaxed state of a muscle is semi-contracted, allowing it to function effectively. The micro-currents can help bring this “memory” back to the muscle, giving better tonus to the face and relaxing over contracted muscles. To the client this means a firmer facial tonus and diminished lines.

The other major benefit of micro-current stimulation is the enhancement of tissue repair. The circulation is improved providing better cellular exchange and regeneration.

For the best long-term results it is highly advisable for clients to complete a series of treatments, two or three treatments a week for about four weeks, followed by a maintenance treatment every six weeks. The success of micro-current application is greatly influenced by the knowledge of the esthetician or beauty therapist, as the proper placement of the electrodes is crucial. The other result oriented component is to ensure that each client practice the proper home care regime to support the treatments.

Professional Beauty

In the modern world, people are fortunate to be able to turn to technology for their fountain of youth, and one of the most important innovations to have sprung from this well of technological advances is the use of microcurrent.
Throughout the ages, people have experimented with treatments intended to enhance their appearance and slow the aging process.  From the early Egyptian's use of kohl and mineral pigments to the tightly drawn corsets of the Victorian era, women have endured much in the name of youth and beauty.
Micro-current is a diamond-in-the-rough when it comes to wellness and anti-aging.  Its use in esthetics has existed since the late '70's, and like many good things, has come full circle and now is in bloom for today's estheticians.
Micro-current is a low level of electrical current that mirrors the body's own natural current, sub-sensory in most cases.  Its proven and accepted properties and potential range in applications - from wound healing, muscle rehabilitation, and macular degeneration to lymphodema - continue to assist medical practitioners with amazing results.  Although microcurrent is credited by hundreds of medical studies, it's necessary to stay focused on how these studies and this technology can benefit and support you as an esthetician in pursuit of your mission to beautify the skin.
The intended use of microcurrent in esthetics is to allow the esthetician a powerful and effective tool to aid in the battle of anti-aging by diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improving the texture and appearance of the skin and reducing the overall visual appearance of aging.
Most micro-current applications and results, whether they are medical or esthitic, rely on the same mechanisms of action.  Even without defining each in detail, the list is very impressive, and the underlying principles logical.

  •     Increased circulatory benefits : blood and lymph

  •     Muscle re-education

  •     Iontophoresis: product penetration

  •     Increased natural production of collagen and elastin

  •     Increase in protein synthesis, gluco neogenesis and membrane transport

  •     Increase in mitochondria activity, adenosine triphosphate (ATP)

  •     Dispersion of hardened collagen

The noted principal micro-current mechanisms of action occur simultaneously and harmoniously during a typical 45 minute microcurrent facial treatment.  One attribute is no more important than the other since they work as a team with the common purpose of creating a healthier, more youthful appearance.
Muscle re-education is most related to the term "facial toning or non-surgical face lifting."  There are 32 different muscles on the face that are manipulated during the average micro-current facial treatment.  True micro-current uses less than 500 microamperes (Ua) (Finer Face uses 320 Ua), and because of it's low intensity, it typically is sub-sensory and cannot cause a physical or visual manipulation (contraction) of the muscle via the electrical current.  Small hand held devises or adhesive electrodes are definitely not advised as they cause a physical contraction on the tiny facial muscles that potentially shock and weaken them.  Bearing this in mind, accessories such as probes or electric gloves are used with micro-current to physically move the muscle into the desired position to perform what is known as muscle re-education - the process of lengthening and shortening muscles.
Muscle-re-education conceptually can be done without electrical current, such as in massage therapy by a therapist however when done with micro-current the results were extraordinary.  Working a muscle from the belly outward will have a lengthening effect that is necessary on muscles that have become increasingly contracted over years of facial expression.  Working a muscle from the origin and insertion point inward will have a shortening effect that is necessary for the majority of the muscles that have become elongated over many years of age and gravity.  This widely-accepted concept was coined as the golgi tendon organ (GTO) by George J. Goodheart Jr., DC, in the late 60's and is still used today.
Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) molecules are the storage and distribution vehicles for energy in the body.  Energy is made through an electrochemical process within the mitochondria when the nucleotide adenosine diphosphate (ADP) passes a strong phosphate high-energy bond to another nucleotide ATP.  This energy conversion, or electron transport, is made within the mitochondria.  The mitochondria then send the energy electron to wherever it is needed within the cell.  ATP is known as the "energy of life" and drives a number of biological processes such as photosynthesis, muscle contractions/re-education, protein synthesis and membrane transport.
The 1982 Cheng study proves that ATP levels were increased by 500% on tissue that was treated utilizing less than 500 microamperes (Ua).  The study also indicated that ATP levels plummeted and depleted when treated with more than 500 Ua.


The idea that ATP can be stockpiled or stored is the reason why micro-current treatment results are cumulative and become better as a series of treatments progresses.  The dramatic increase of ATP levels allows muscles to stay in the re-educated positions for longer periods of time.  In the same study, Cheng also observed the aminoisobutyric acid uptake increased dramatically which led to a 30-40% increase in protein synthesis and membrance transport.   Bearing the Cheng study in mind, it is understandable why individuals who use EMS-type devices, such as some hand-held devices use as much as 5000 Ua, do receive some instant tone, however, when used cumulatively, create flaccid and lifeless muscles that are completely void of ATP.  Aside from muscle re-education and massive increases in ATP levels, micro-current has other proven benefits from esthetic applications.  Emil Y. Chi, PhD, director of the University of Washington's department of pathology, performed clinical studies using micro-current equipment.  He notes, "The fact that this technology works in harmony with the body is evident.  Examination of skin tissue treated with microcurrent showed a 45% increase in the number of elastin fibers in the dermis, and the length of the fibers on average doubled.  The collagen thickness in connective tissue increased 10%, and the number of blood vessels increased by 35%.  The application of micro-current to skin and tissue produced a firmer and tighter feeling on the skin surface."  Many of the studies detailing the massive increase in speed regarding wound healing refer to the ATP as one of the attributing factors.  The other attributing factor is an increase in blood circulation.  Blood circulation has everything to do with the function, condition, color and overall health of the skin, as well as underlying tissue.  Chi's 2003 study performed at the University of Washington further notes a 35% increase in blood circulation in tissue treated with micro-current.  In terms of product penetration, micro-current offers specific iontophoresis that allows superior penetration of products into the skin.  The idea that electrical current emits from one probe and returns to the other allows specific focus of product penetration, versus traditional methods that send incredibly high electrical currents unnecessarily through out the body to achieve a simple task.  Profound results can be achieved by products through iontophoresis.

Lymphatic drainage is a very over looked treatment in esthetics, although it has been gaining momentum in recent years.  Clinical studies performed using microcurrent at Hong Kong's Tuen Muen Hospital in 1988  indicated that lymphatic drainage was increased by 28% on post-cancer patients suffering from lymphodema.
Chi's 1999 study also proved that the redness, irritation and inflammation of surgically traumatised tissue could be decreased significantly when treated with micro-current.  Related to this, the build up of hardened collagen that makes up scar tissue was noted to be three to five times less in tissue treated without micro-current.  Further studies also indicated an amazing dispersion of existing scar tissue when treated with micro-current.  This indicated that in the realm of plastic surgery, you can see the obvious place for micro-current technology.  By administering a series of treatments before surgery, muscle and tissue condition is maximized,  inclusive of an excessive storage of ATP.  Micro-current treatment of sutures and trauma post-op decreases the down time by reducing inflammation, redness and irritation, while enhancing the healing ability and minimizing scar tissue.  Post-surgery treatments also are vital to maintain the results of the surgical work.

Although the level of current used in micro-current devices is very minute, there are some contraindications to consider.  This includes a client who wears a pacemaker, is pregnant, or suffers from epilepsy, phlebitis or thrombosis, and of course any  client who currently is under the care of a physician.
Although a remarkable difference is seen after the first treatment, the benefits of micro-current are cumulative, and typically are performed in a series to gain maximum anti-aging results.  The average treatment series consists of 12 treatments, generally administered over a 6 week period, each treatments takes around an hour if performed properly.  It is important that preparation for a microcurrent treatment consists of cleansing and exfoliating using only water-based products, as oil will inhibit the current.
The financial rewards of microcurrent treatments meet the criterion of today's business-savvy esthetician.  Microcurrent treatments nationally average around $100 per treatment.  It typically requires approximately eight clients for an therapist to recover her initial investment.  Furthermore, beauticians who realize this profit potential succeed in evolving into specialized anti-aging clinics truly focusing on attracting the baby boomer clients who now represent the single largest, and single  wealthiest, segment of the population today.
What is the difference between a modality that can be purchased on television for $99.00 and a true microcurrent that costs thousands?  The old adage, "You get what you pay for," definitely applies here.  The way that electrical current affects the tissue and the results that are achieved are completely dependent on the sophistication of the engineering that takes place between the power source and the output accessory.  Progressive manufacturers of microcurrent devises offer completely computerised, automated devices.  Most systems virtually walk the operator through each phase of the treatment step-by-step, and even visually indicate on the LCD screen what program they are using.  (Finer Face is one of the only units available on the market that actually tells you what program you are in and has certain reminders to start working on larger muscles when you get to that stage so all guess work is eliminated).
During the average five-step 1 hour facial, Finer Face will automatically change its power output combination (output combination = microamperage + hertz + waveshape) more than 500 times, Finer Face will also check the skin resistance over 1024 times per second to ensure the current is going into the correct depth for the program you have selected.  Once again, all guess work is eliminated.  This patented technology is called microcurrent sequencing.  The output combination controls the depth, purpose and effect that the electrical current will have on the tissue being treated.  Low levels of output combinations usually are associated with deep tissue muscle re-education work, whereas high levels of output combinations usually are associated with circulatory benefits and iontophoresis.
Leading microcurrent manufacturers equip the devices with diagnostic monitoring and metering systems that confirm via LCD screen the exact percentage of conductivity that is flowing from probe to probe through the tissue, as well as the level of resistance that may be present, rather than simple bleeping lights.  This information is processed through an internal computer and the output combination has the potential to adjust itself 1024 times per second if necessary to accommodate the lack of conductivity or overabundance of resistance.  This information also allows the esthetician to make appropriate adjustments tothe treatment protocol.
Responsible manufacturers require every device purchaser to attend an education and certification class where the esthetician learns the operation and theory of the equipment in depth as well as appropriate esthetic applications.

Microdermabrasion may be performed as an outstanding exfoliation service before a microcurrent treatment, and serves as the most synergetic ally to microcurrent in its battle against aging skin.  many spas that have been successful with microdermabrasion are turning to microcurrent to extend yet another non-invasive anti-aging treatment to their established customer base.  Larisa Miron of Spa 5 in Fort Lee, New Jersey, notes, "About 90% of my clientele who try microdermabrasion opt to try microcurrent and vice versa.  The treatments are natural partners for each other as microdermabrasion works from the outside in and microcurrent from the inside out, both working to achieve the same anti-aging goal".

The success of any device must contain the following attributes:

  •     It must be marketable

  •     It must be proven

  •     It must be psychologically satisfying

  •     It must show quick, lasting, cumulative results

David Gerard of Born of Earth Day Spa in Westport, Connecticut, notes, "Gaining clientele for anti-aging is never a problem - repeat business is.  if clients don't see and feel results, they never achieve the psychological satisfaction necessary for repeat business.  bottom line - no results, no return.  Microcurrent results are noticeable after the first treatment; once they see the potential they never can seem to get enough."
Marketing a service because you found a good deal or because a sales rep left equipment free of charge with the agreement that you would split the profits is a formula for disaster. "As estheticians we have worked hard to establish a well respected, educated and professional image.  This perception should never be jeopardised by introducing services that do not meet all of the appropriate criteria for success," states Lori Nestoe, president of Eva's Esthetics, San Jose, California.


History has shown that beauty and anti-aging techniques fade with the changing times, however, technologies such as microcurrent evolve with these changes.  This constant evolution and efficacy of treatments is what will maintain microcurrent's status at the forefront of anti-aging skin care, never to become considered a trend.  This efficacious technology has only revealed the tip of its iceberg, and promises longevity beyond our expectations.

Female Focus

Female Focus on the Costa Blanca

Finer Skin Care
In the modern world, people are fortunate to be able to turn to technology for their fountain of youth, and one of the most important innovations to have sprung from this well of technological advances is the use of micro-current.

Throughout the ages, people have experimented with treatments intended to enhance their appearance and slow the aging process. From the early Egyptian’s use of kohl and mineral pigments to the tightly drawn corsets of the Victorian era, women have endured much in the name of youth and beauty. Micro-current is a diamond-in-the-rough when it comes to wellness and anti-aging.

Micro-current is a low level of electrical currant that mirrors the body’s own natural current. It is proven and accepted properties and potential range of applications from wound healing, muscle rehabilitation and lymphodema continue to assist medical practitioners with amazing results. As an esthetician, micro-current offers us the opportunity to fight aging from the inside out without even going near a surgical knife. Non-surgical face-lift is an increasingly popular way for men and women to improve their facial appearance. Research has shown that micro- current therapy raises the level of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and amino acids in cells, both of which accelerate cellular repair. Examination of skin tissue treated with micro-current shows a 45% increase in the number of elastic fibres in the dermis, and the length of the fibres on average doubled. The collagen thickness in connective tissue increased 10%, and the number of blood vessels increased by 35%. The application of micro-current to the skin produced a firmer and tighter feeling on the skin surface due to muscle re-education. We all know that without exercise muscles lose their shape and tone. This is extremely noticeable on the face as it is the one place we cannot hide. As facial muscles are connected directly to the skin, when they do begin to lose elasticity they drag the skin down with them which results in lose sagging skin, wrinkles and fine lines.

For your treatment your therapist will visit you in your own home and pamper you with 1 hour of painless, relaxing electronic facial toning, using Finer Face skin care, this is a totally natural range of products which does not contain any oil, is pH balanced, soap free, hypo-allergenic, 100% pure and natural, homoeopathically prepared and PROUDLY NOT TESTED ON ANIMALS. All products are available to buy to use at home. One off treatments are a great boost to the skin and are priced at 35.50 euros. Micro-current is excellent for acne sufferers and will promote healing in the skin. Courses of 12 for full non-surgical face lift benefit from a discount. Please note that treatments cannot be given to pregnant women or clients with pacemakers. 

New Zealand Fitness Magazine

Non-Surgical Face Lifts New Zealand Fitness Magazine
Sometimes touted as "the Star Wars of modern facials", a sleek machine delivers gentle electrical impulses that tighten, tone and refine facial muscles to give an effective non-surgical face-lift. Kimberely Paterson investigates.
Ask Auckland beauty therapist Kathryn O'Donnell to describe her daily work and she is soon reeling off complex anatomical terms and raving about what her treatments do for her clients' appearance.
What Kathryn is talking about is micro-current non-surgical face lifts, an increasingly popular way for women (and men) to improve their facial appearance without going anywhere near a surgical knife.
The electrical impulse treatments have grown out of the more than 20 years use of micro-current therapy in medical and physiotherapy treatments to alleviate pain and treat problems such as Bell's palsy.
Now the mechanism has been refined for cosmetic use. Micro-current therapy used on the facial dermis produces more collagen, enhances blood circulation, lymph drainage and elimination of waste products that congest cells.
It's like having the most relaxing facial workout that leaves your deep skin tingling and glowing as the cotton tipped electrodes are swept around the delicate facial muscles.
Kathryn is one of the most experienced micro-current operators in New Zealand. She began giving treatments in 1995 and ultimately became so convinced of the validity of the treatment that she opened her own clinic specialising in Finer Face micro-currents since 2001.
Kathryn's Birkenhead salon, Charisma Beauty Therapy, has a strong holistic philosophy. As well as training as a beauty therapist, Kathryn has studied naturopathy and aromatherapy and has spent a total of 17 years working in the health and beauty field in New Zealand and Australia.
Her clients are women and men who want to improve their appearance without using surgery, botox or other invasive treatments.
Treatment is simple - an hour flat on your back while Kathryn uses the two cotton-bud-tipped probes to give gentle electrical stimulation to all the muscles on your face. A recommended 12 treatments are needed for best results, with a follow-up maintenance regime of one treatment a month. All up it's just the snip of the cost of a surgical procedure.
Research has shown that micro-current therapy raises the level of adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and amino acids in cells, both of which accelerate cellular repair. It also transports bio-intrinsic products into the cell for healthier cell reproduction.
It helps re-establish muscle memory, naturally lifting sagging skin and softening wrinkles while improving skin elasticity.
Kathryn says her work with long terms clients has shown micro-current:

  •     Improves muscle tone in the face and neck

  •     Lifts jowls and eyebrows and rejuvenates the skin

  •     Softens deep lines around the eyes and mouth

  •     Eliminates fine lines from the face

  •     Normalizes skin color and reduces puffiness

  •     Improves facial circulation - including helping darkness around the eyes

  •     Exfoliates the skin's surface and removes dry skin

To understand how it works is realizing humans are, in effect, electrical beings and using a gentle electrical current stimulates cell action.
"As we age, our facial muscles lose their tone, dragging the skin down and creating wrinkles and sagging.  The skin also loses its luster and collagen and elastin production decreases.
"Micro-current therapy has been scientifically proven to increase levels of ATP, increase collagen production and promote ion transfer through cell membranes, all of which improve appearance. With its toning effect, it helps in a way treatments like botox can't."
Kathryn notes that Lord of the Ring actress Liv Tyler is a big fan of micro-current therapy. "Liv's just 23, but when younger women start the treatment it really delays the onset of facial aging." Kathryn, in her 40s, has been using the therapy for the past nine years and is a living testament to her own product's effectiveness.
One of the first clients Kathryn saw significant results with, was a dedicated ex-bodybuilder and gym-goer whose youthful body was belied by an aging face. "We got just brilliant results using micro-current therapy," says Kathryn.
Ninety-five per cent of clients are women - many repairing years of damage done by sun exposure, smoking and excessive alcohol consumption; others wanting to look especially sensational on their wedding day; older women who want to stay looking as young as they feel. Kathryn's youngest client was aged 31; her oldest 81.
"I remember one client whose skin was in a really bad condition from a lot of photo aging from outdoor sports and also damaged by smoking and alcohol. We really worked on her skin to repair it on a deep level. She began to have friends asking her what she was doing and she tried to pass it off that she was using a new moisturizer. Her friend said 'That's no cream that is doing that' and found out she'd been using Finer Face."
Dermatologist David Goldberg, clinical professor at the Department of Dermatology at the Mt Sinai School of Medicine in New York, reported earlier this year that micro-current therapy is effective, safe and offers a way to tighten the skin without using surgery.
For Kathryn, offering men and women micro-current therapy is even simpler. She sees it as her life's work.
"This has always been my dream," she says, "to have my own beauty therapy clinic and offer something that really makes a difference."
And the result of micro-current? Several sessions left my skin glowing, my facial muscles feeling firmer and lifted. My cheeks felt firmer and as though they had been raised, as did my eyebrows. The effect is subtle but exciting.
Contra-indications for micro-current therapy include: cardiac pacemakers, epilepsy, metal implants, skin irritation, pregnancy, and cancerous lesions.
Conditions that age the skin

  •     Poor diet too little protein, fat free diet

  •     Excessive sun exposure

  •     Sugar consumption

  •     Stress

  •     Illness

  •     Too much or too little exercise

  •     Heredity factors

  •     Smoking

  •     Alcohol consumption

  •     Dehydration

  •     Repeated weight loss and gain

  •     Drugs/pharmaceuticals

  •     Poor wastes elimination


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